S2.11 - The Joys of Sailing from Ischia to Ponza
June 9: Luxury Yachts, Dodgy Anchors, and Swelly Castles
As we set off from the bay, waving goodbye to our ultra-luxurious motor yacht neighbors (yes, the kind that charter out for $600k a week!), I couldn’t help but admire their top-deck palm plants and dreamy lounge areas.
Farewell Capri!
Honestly, they looked like something out of a Bond movie.
Meanwhile, we were off to grab a quick lunch with a view at Castello Aragonese, an epic medieval castle perched on its own little island.
Castello Aragonese: We didn’t get a chance to go tour though.
The weather was beautiful… but seas were swelly enough to feel like we were trying to eat lunch on a roller coaster. Lunch turned into a balancing act, so we decided to explore the other side of Ischia in hopes of finding a calmer spot to anchor.
But anchoring in Ischia turned out to be like trying to solve a riddle wrapped in red tape. Every spot we checked either needed a permit (with a fee, of course) or flat-out prohibited anchoring. Yet somehow, boats were scattered all over, ignoring the rules entirely. Confusing? Very. Italian? Absolutely.
We finally found a little haven at San Montano for a swim and to wait for our check-in at the marina. Just as we were about to relax, Ryan yelled out – a 60-foot motorboat was drifting toward us like an uninvited guest at a wedding. Turns out, their anchor was dragging, and they hadn’t thought to mention this little detail as they floated perilously close. 🙈 Let’s just say the swim afterward felt more like a cool-down for my nerves than anything else.
By late afternoon, we made it to Cala Degli Aragonesi Marina in Ischia
Word to the wise: if you come here, be ready for some marina rivalry! The neighboring marina tries to “poach” boats, which led to a minor comedy of errors about who we were supposed to follow. But once docked, all was calm, and we headed out for a lovely dinner in town.
June 10-11: The Marina Life and a Ventotene’s Dinner Invitation
With a couple of days spent doing marina chores and prepping for our next leg, we set off once again. We stopped at Ventotene, a picturesque island with a fascinating history. We anchored right at the harbor’s entrance, offering a stunning view of the Prison of Santo Stefano on the hilltop.
Built by prisoners in 1797, this old fortress looms over the island with an eerie sort of grandeur.
Just as we were settling in, a friendly local offered us a ride to his family-run restaurant in town. He assured us the price was fair, and we figured, why not? At exactly 7 pm, like clockwork, we were picked up and whisked to shore.
The dinner was delightful, especially the fish appetizer, which the owner recommended. It was a cozy, family-run affair that felt like a true Italian experience – hospitality, local charm, and incredible food!
View from restaurant.
June 12: Ponza’s Rock Arches and the Uninvited DJ
The next day, we had a “sporty” ride to Ponza and anchored at Scoglio del Parroco - Spaccapolpi, a hotspot thanks to the dramatic rock arch rising out of the water.
It was beautiful… and it turns out everyone and their cousin thought so too. As the day wore on, we were surrounded by a sea of boats, each with its own unique contribution to the chaos. And, naturally, the main “party boat” anchored right next to us, complete with booming music that echoed through the bay until the early evening. Finally, they left, along with the armada of other boats that had joined the party. Peace at last!
Ryan and I hopped on Ugh (our trusty tender) and explored around the corner, finding a quiet little spot called Cala Inferno with almost no one in sight. Mental note: that’s tomorrow’s hideaway.
Cala Inferno
June 13: Cala Inferno – Steps, Signs, and… a Tanker?
As planned, we moved to Cala Inferno, an absolute gem of a spot with a rocky beach and towering cliffs. We took Ugh out again to explore, only to be greeted by “no beach access” signs everywhere, warning of falling rocks. The cliffside stairs looked tempting, but we played it safe and stayed aboard.
Just as we were settling in, a loud blaring horn interrupted the peace – a tanker, of all things, decided to drop anchor right next to us, presumably to supply water to the town.
It explained why no other large boats were in the area, but hey, it added a bit of local flair to our anchorage!
We’ll move a bit further down tomorrow, away from the tankers and closer to whatever Italian adventure awaits next.