S2.12 - Sailing In and Around Ponza on Route to Rome with Lucky Enough
June 14-17: Ponza Drift and Mafia Encounters
We made the bold journey of 0.2 nautical miles to Spiaggia Del Core—yes, you read that right, a whole 0.2 nm. We took Ugh (our trusty dinghy) for a ride into town to locate the elusive “dinghy parking.” Last year’s fiasco taught us that finding a spot for your dingy is a bit like hunting a mythical creature. Thankfully, Ryan, our logistics wizard, found us a snug little spot where we could slip in and out of town for fresh fruits replenishments, veggies, and the inevitable fishing gear.
Finding a place to dock Ugh
Our mornings here kicked off with sunrise stretches, swims, and paddle boarding—which we attempted last year with all the grace of newborn giraffes. This year, however, we finally stood up on our boards and pretended to know what we were doing.
The crew, inspired by our new skills, harvested fresh sea urchins off the rocky walls. Turns out, they’re not just sea porcupines; they’re actually quite tasty!
With spectacular weather, we spent quality time on Lucky Enough, playing games like cribbage, casino, and Scrabble…
..while soaking up the sun and sunsets on our “patio.”
We even concocted a signature drink, the LED (Lucky Enough Drink): a mix of gin, Bombay rum, sparkling water, tonic, and a dash of fruit.
Our little slice of liquid paradise.
Of course, Ugh took us on an adventure to explore the nearby caves,
…and we paddleboarded to nearby rocks for some snorkeling through tiny underwater passages. If that doesn’t make us ocean ninjas, I don’t know what does.
Dinner in town was a treat, with one restaurant so high up a mountain that it could have been in the clouds.
Once again…wrong day to wear flip flops!
Every evening, if we were brave enough, we took a dip around the boat in the dark—let’s just say, the jury is still out on what lurks in those waters at night.
The one bit of “drama”? After being peacefully anchored in this spot for the past 3 days, two catamarans showed up in the evening and anchored a mere 10 feet from us. When Ryan politely asked them to reconsider their proximity since the whole bay was open, the captain of one declared he was the “mafia boss”, waving us off with his classic Italian gesture also known as che vuoi? in Italian. It's often a flick of the hand from under the chin, indicating anything from mild annoyance or dismissal to a playful "get out of here" or “I’m done with this.” Depending on the context, it can range from a bit sassy to outright rude. The motion and intent make it unmistakably Italian!
After a brief, awkward standoff, we took the high road and moved ourselves to more open waters because, well, who wants to challenge the “boss”?
June 18: Moving to Ponza’s “Money Spot”
After a sunrise stretch and my first (successful!) homemade bread attempt, we left Ponza’s east side for a smoother anchorage at Lucia Rosa. The “money spot” didn’t disappoint. We hit the beach with paddleboards and Fatboys, only to come back and spot an octopus swimming under our boat. Xevi, with heroic flair, dove in and caught it bare-handed before we set it free.
Then, out of the blue... guess who showed up to anchor near us again?? Yup, it was Mr. Mafia Boss himself! This time, though, he and his crew dropped anchor a respectable distance away—perhaps a newfound sense of nautical etiquette?
Ryan, ever the diplomat, decided to take the high road and paddle over with a couple of beers in hand. As he paddled, he rehearsed his line over and over: "Vengo in Pace” - Italian for “I come in peace”. His plan was to offer a peace beer and call a truce. When "The Boss" spotted Ryan approaching, he bristled at first, but as soon as he saw Ryan’s friendly gesture, he relaxed, lowered his guard, and the two shared a laugh. And just like that, the great Anchoring Standoff of Ponza turned into a toast to new friends.
Settling in for sunset wine on the patio, we discovered our well-planned evening was thwarted by a sudden cloud cover. But hey, cloudy evenings on a boat are still better than clear evenings anywhere else!
June 19: More Hockey, New Friends, and a Tunnel Paddle
Our day began with a thrilling 5-3 Game 5 win for the Oilers! In a wonderful coincidence, we ran into Claudio who happened to be anchored in the same bay. He was introduced to us by our Andreas (again from S1.22), and offered to lend us his slip when we arrive in Rome, We invited him over for wine, a tour of Lucky Enough, and some laughs as the bay filled up with more boats than we expected.
Claudio leaving on his electric paddle board.
For when you want to look sporty but feel lazy!
That evening, we had a burrito dinner before an unforgettable couples’ paddleboard excursion through a rock tunnel. Ryan capped it off with a brave solo night swim, while I settled for a quick dip—just enough for bragging rights!
June 20: Cave Explorations and Austrian Treats
With a 6:30 am start, we left Ponza for Isola di Palmarola, anchoring at Punta di Mezzogiorno (same anchorage we stayed at last August - See S1.19). After relocating a couple of times looking for calmer waters, we finally returned to Punta di Mezzogiorno and took Ugh out for a cave tour,
Then, we took some time to visit our new Austrian friends Ryan had met earlier on one of his paddle board outings.
Sailing catamaran “Our Dream”
Where we were treated to Viennese hazelnut chocolate wafers. Thank you Gerhard and Angelika!
June 21: Sailing Towards Rome
Fog blanketed the water as we said our goodbyes to island life (for now), motor-sailing towards Rome with a little help from the wind.
Nine and a half hours later, Lucky Enough was docked safely at Porto Turistico in Rome. She’ll be staying there while we zip back to France to check in on Lucky Stars and then to Canada for Amy and Mike’s wedding.
After a week of sunsets, “mafia bosses,” sea urchins, and homemade cocktails, it was time for a quick break from the Mediterranean life. But not to worry—Lucky Enough will be waiting for our next adventure!